Tokyo

Tokyo can be daunting. Here’s my advice.

Planning Japan was my biggest (travel planning) challenge to date. Let me share some of the things I learned along the way.

Tokyo is huge. Even with excellent public transportation, it can take awhile to move between neighborhoods. If you have limited time in Tokyo, I’d recommend planning your day one neighborhood at a time. 

The subway stations are also huge. Give yourself the time (and grace) to get where you need to go. Use Google Maps to check which exit to leave from. In the larger stations like Shinjuku, you may find yourself 10-15 minutes away from where you need to be if you simply follow the first exit sign you see. 

View from the Tokyo Skytree (2,080 feet high)

Wagyu actually translates to "Japanese beef" and Japan is the place to indulge in red meat. The Japanese are incredibly creative in their preparation, so make sure to try it in a few restaurants. True Wagyu beef must come from four specific Japanese breeds of cow: Japanese Black, Japanese Polled, Japanese Brown, or Japanese Shorthorn. The cattle must also be born and raised in Japan, and registered in an official tracking system.

The real MVP of the trip

Luggage delivery: don’t be that tourist hauling multiple suitcases onto the Shinkansen (aka the bullet train), especially if you’re going on a weekend trip like Hakone. Luggage delivery with Yamato is so easy (and cheap). Your hotel concierge will be able to handle the whole process for you and your bag will be waiting in your next hotel room upon arrival. Just make sure your next hotel has staff to receive it (they can’t deliver to Airbnbs)

On the Romancecar from Tokyo to Hakone

Eating and drinking in public is not a thing. Those gorgeous department store basements featuring food as far as the eye can see in Takashimaya or Issaten is meant for in-home consumption. There won’t be any tables, napkins, or seats for you, so plan wisely.

Make sure to try Japanese treats like Taiyaki (鯛焼き)

Have you ever thought about how helpful trash cans are? Well, you will if you go to Japan. There’s almost no public trash cans and it’s customary to carry your trash around with you until disposing of it in your own home. If you’re desperate, convenience stores will often have a public trash can. 

All those people and not a trash can in sight

IC Pass/Suica Card: add Japanese Yen via your phone’s wallet (the Suica card is already in there) to use the subway and bus systems, as well as for vending machines. This will save you from having to use the ticket machines at the subway stations.

A view inside Inokashira Park. Tokyo is filled with lush green spaces.

Withdraw Yen from convenience stores ATMs (like 7-11 or Lawsons) Make sure to have Yen with you at all times, as it’s a very cash heavy society. You can plan to use your credit card for cab rides and high end restaurants.

The convenience store of your dreams. 7-11 in Japan is not like the United States.

You won’t go wrong anywhere in Tokyo, but I encourage you to think about visiting some of the non-touristy neighborhoods like Kichijoji or Shimokitazawa to get a better feel of how the locals live. You may get overwhelmed by the number of people in Shinjuku, Harajuku, or Shibuya. Visiting one of these neighborhoods will give you a chance to catch your breath.

A yokocho in the Kichijoji neighborhood

Restaurant Pick ($$$): Sézane. Located inside the Four Seasons in Chiyoda City, Sézane is a 2 Michelin Star French restaurant. The 8-course tasting menu rooted in French classics featuring ingredients and seasonal produce from Japan. You see this reflected in dishes like duck foie gras slow poached with chicken leg and soy sauce and jelly fish niçoise with olives and anchovies. The staff is friendly, fun and gracious.

If you’re planning to do fine dining in Japan, make sure to choose any cuisine except Japanese. The food and service is excellent everywhere, so you don’t need to spend the money on Japanese Michelin dinners to get a fantastic dining experience.

Dinner at Sézanne

Don’t forget to visit a cat cafe! I recommend Cafe Mocha in Shinjuku.