Hanoi

Hanoi is so special. Where do I start? The energy is buzzy and vibrant. It’s filled with gorgeous architecture and rich history. The food is fresh and incredible. It’s less chaotic than other Vietnamese cities. On top of that, it’s very affordable.

The Temple of Literature

Here is what I loved about eating in Vietnam. The best food is not found in fine dining establishments. It’s found in small restaurants, perhaps down a back valley or up a flight (or two) of stairs. You’ll likely sit in a plastic chair or on top of a crate at a small table. And there probably won’t be air conditioning. The good news is that the food will be phenomenal. In Northern Vietnam, they lean into tradition and recipes are perfected over generations. Vietnamese cuisine also values being able to customize your dish. Keep reading to see some highlights and recommended stops.

Pho is considered to be the national dish of Vietnam. It’s eaten for breakfast, lunch, OR dinner. Bone broth is cooked for hours (or days) with star anise, cinnamon, ginger, and black cardamom. The result is a clear broth that is topped with noodles, green onions, and meat.

Pho is usually served with quay, a long strip of fried wheat flour that's similar to a churro.

Please enjoy this photo of how the quay is delivered to the restaurant. Like everything else in Hanoi, it is going to arrive on an overcrowded moped.

Crispy shrimp pastries (bánh tôm), shrimp pork wontons (há cao tom), spring rolls

Have you ever eaten a meal and then thought about it for years? Mine is pictured below. Bún cha originated in Hanoi and is considered to be a symbol of Hanoi’s street food culture. It consists of marinated grilled meats, rice noodles, and fresh herbs. This dish’s many flavors are incredibly balanced. The spiciness of the chiles and garlic balance out the sugar and sourness of the lime juice. The herbs cut through the richness of the fatty grilled meat, and the noodles help absorb the flavorful sauce and meat. It’s not the spiciness you’re expecting; in Northern Vietnam, black pepper is used to add heat to food, rather than chili pepper.

We ate a lot of bún cha on our trip and the best one can be found on Hang Gai street. My favorite part is you can modify your bún chả as you prefer - add as many greens, noodles, garlic, or peppers to your liking.

Vietnamese egg coffee (cà phê trung) originated in Hanoi in 1946 as a creative workaround to a milk shortage caused by the French War. Nguyen Giang, a bartender at the Metropole Hotel, experimented with ways to create a creamy coffee drink like café au lait that could be achieved without the lait. Instead of using regular milk, he combined raw egg and condensed milk to create a thick and velvety coffee. Does this sound good? Not really. But it is delicious. You must make sure to try if you visit Hanoi.

You can find egg coffee all over the city. The most famous spot is Café Giang, opened by Nguyen Giang, where his son still serves the drink (and many other drinks) today.

Traditional Vietnamese spring rolls are ordered in restaurants as a platter, letting the customer create the lettuce wraps to their liking. Expect to find greens, meat (usually pork), vegetables and noodles.

Just another beautiful day in Hanoi