Barcelona

Returning to Barcelona

I went to Barcelona for the first time with my parents in high school. Traveling with my architect father and gallery curator mother, we spent most of our time visiting cathedrals and touring Antoni Gaudí spots. Going back in my 30s, I was delighted by the local cuisine, laidback attitude, and winding backstreets outside of the central city.

Consider staying outside the traditional tourist areas. Explore hotels in the Grácia neighborhood for a more authentic Catalan experience that is still walkable to popular sites. In the northern part of the neighborhood, you’ll find cheap local tapas bars. Go south and you’ll find many European-style bars. Head to the placas at night to mingle with locals enjoying a drink and a late dinner.

Mercat de L’Abaceria Central: Skip the typical tourist markets like La Boqueria and head to Mercat de L’Abaceria Central. Opened in 1892, you’ll see locals picking up their weekly groceries or having a leisurely lunch. If you’re looking to get a better idea of what Spanish cuisine looks like, this is a good place to start.

In the oceanside city, you’ll find fresh fish in almost every market and restaurant

Fresh fruit and vegetables are sold year round at Mercat de L’Abaceria Central

Don’t forget to pick up desserts at Mercat de L’Abaceria Central

Don't skip out on the Ibérico ham while in Spain. Ibérico ham is the most prized type of Spanish ham and comes from the native black Ibérico pig.

In a city filled with beautiful architecture, it can be easy to miss all the delightful street art. Look for it throughout the city.

Restaurant Pick ($) La Pepita: Oooh this was a good one in the Gracía neighborhood. Filled with locals, this spot featured small plates (tapas), huge windows kept open all night, friendly staff, and Spanish wine… this is quintessential Catalan dining.

Carpaccio apertivo at La Pepita. See what I mean?

Restaurant Pick ($$$): Cocina Hermanos Torres. Have you ever wanted to eat dinner on a movie set? No, me either. But this is the energy of the warehouse space of Cocina Hermanos Torres and you’ll love it. It’s operated by twin Brothers, the Torres, and dishes on their menu are inspired by their family. This includes Sunflower Seeds Ice Cream inspired by “summer trips with our father” and onion from Fuentes, Cured Parmesan Cheese and Aestivum Truffle “from our father’s garden”. They recently received a 3 Michelin Star rating.

The kitchen is center stage at Cocina Hermanos Torres

Paella originated in Spain, cooked by farmers and their crews over a wood fire for the lunchtime meal. Now a popular global dish, it can be found on menus throughout the city.