The Faroe Islands
Tips for visiting the Faroe Islads
Have you heard of the Faroe Islands? Maybe not. How did I come across this remote archipelago that juts out of the cold seas between Norway and Iceland? It’s thanks to Sheep View, the time Faroese residents strapped cameras onto their sheep to help map their roads when Google Street View declined to visit. (When I visited, Google Maps was available but Apple Maps had still not mapped the area) When I saw pictures of the stunning landscape (and many sheep), I knew I had to go. It’s the most beautiful place I have ever visited.
Faroe Islands literally translates to “island of sheep” and for good reason. There are 70,000 sheep and 50,000 people in the Faroe Islands. You will see sheep everywhere; on the roads, roaming on hiking trails, and in every field. Drive slow and get your camera ready.
Yes, this is how close you can get to the sheep. They could not have cared less.
There are so many hiking trails in the Faroe Islands! Because it’s still relatively undiscovered, many of the trails are not well marked. We’re talking directions like “park at the local post office, walk past the school, and pass the big rock to start your hike” Look for small markers or existing paths to help guide you. It won’t be as clear as you’re expecting.
On the island of Vagar. These are the kind of views you can easily hike to.
You’ll eat the best salmon of your life. Incredibly fresh, most high end restaurants in the US feature salmon from the Faroe Islands on their menu. But don’t expect a better price, all meals are expensive due to the remoteness of the islands.
In Eysturoy. Look how clear this water is!
The weather is unpredictable. An amazing view of fjords can be visible one moment and the rain and fog can roll in minutes later. Drive for 15 minutes and you might find that the weather is completely different (for better or for worse).
Expect to be in your car a lot. The views are so fantastic that you won’t mind. The islands are spread out, but you can easily drive between most of the islands. The only traffic jam will be due to sheep.
One of our many new friends
Restaurant Pick ($$$): KOKS. Often hailed as the world’s most remote fine dining experience, this was a special one. Arriving at the restaurant on a foggy evening, we started at a small “hjallur” cabin next to Lake Leynavatn. With a fermented fish beer to welcome us, we were told about the restaurant history and the meal ahead. One of the chefs then came by to drive us over to the actual restaurant. I can only describe the restaurant aesthetic as hygge. For your own knowledge, it is indeed pronounced the way it looks.
Of the 20 courses, 10 were seafood based - with items like the mahogany clam, sea urchin, and langoustines caught that afternoon by divers in Lake Leynavatn. You can also expect unusual delicacies like whale heart, sheep’s head, and Skerpikjøt (wind dried mutton).
Mahogany clams from Lake Leynavatn. Almost too beautiful to eat.
The view from our table. The rain and fog only added to the coziness. Hygge to the max!
